Monday, October 3, 2011

Givenchy Catches The Perfect Wave (Fashion Wire Daily)

Paris ? The hottest show in fashion today is without a doubt Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, whose singular tender tough aesthetic, fertile imagination, revolutionary techniques and frankly elitist take on chic put him ahead of the pack.

Givenchy is a demanding wear under Tisci, requiring a svelte figure and a brave approach to fashion but for those with the courage and style it's a brilliant aesthetic statement. His is a new aquatic chic, where silhouettes and shapes evoke the sinuosity and independence of creatures from the ocean's depths.

Tisci cut alls sorts of organic shapes in this spring 2012 collection, shown in Paris on Sunday, Oct. 2, including curly mermaids tails and audacious algae twists, so the look was certainly complicated, but the results were often mesmerizing. No matter what classical garment he touched, frock coats, cocktail dresses or tuxedos, he reinvented them with submariner panache. And as the models walked super fast, they seemed like deep water creatures suddenly speeding away in a nature documentary, especially a beautiful trio of silver layered silver chiffon sequins.

Take his layered white cotton dresses whose arch ribbon designed mimicked fish anatomy, or the undulating multiple lapel jackets whose waving movement as the model's walked suggested a tail fin twisting away.

The collection was quite literally aquatic - with hand-painted seawolf, tuxedos in stingray and sharkskin skirts. And if the odd individual item looked a bit forbidding, the ensemble was magnificent. So the finale, where the gals walked in rapid tight formation was a veritable triumph, the applause was thundering and one of the moments when the audience almost has a collective frisson of delight.

Besides making beautiful and revolutionary clothes, Tisci is important for two other reasons. Firstly, because he now leads the most important trend in contemporary fashion, the combination of street attitude with couture quality finish and style. And secondly, because Tisci has achieved this position very much on his own terms and without the support of much of the fashion establishment, namely the industry's fashion critics.

It's true that Givenchy is a company within LVMH, the world's biggest luxury goods conglomerate with profits last year of just over 3 billion euros, or $4 billion, on sales of 20.32 billion euros, or some $27 billion, so this is not a starving artist. Yet even if he leads and determines fashion trends, Tisci remains something an outsider. Since he took over at Givenchy in 2005, few of the major established critics have lauded him with superlatives, major department stores did not rush to place mega orders and many magazines, especially in America, were slow to embrace his aesthetic.

However, after producing the most accomplished haute couture collection in Paris this July, he distilled down many of its romantic, ethereal and saintly themes into great ready-to-wear designs in this important show.

Made in pastels, faded algae, Atlantic beach beige, bone, shiny black and pink - the color of the season - and accessoried, but of course, with oversized shark's tooth pendants in silver, this was a great fashion moment.

Source: http://us.rd.yahoo.com/dailynews/rss/fashion/*http%3A//news.yahoo.com/s/fwd/20111003/en_fashion_fwd/givenchycatchestheperfectwave

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